Poberaj Wines Mencia 2023

Poberaj Wines lies nestled in a remote, rural expanse north of the small town of White Salmon, Washington - a verdant breeding ground for a life in harmony with the land. The proprietors, Jure Poberaj and Nina Jimenez, when they’re not tending to their vegetable gardens, fruit orchards, or capture pond and chickens, they can be found carefully cultivating their own-rooted vines of Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, and Nebbiolo. Jure draws influence from Eastern Europe after working multiple harvests with his uncle Joško Gravner, an Italian pioneer in natural winemaking (google him!).

Pulling onto the dirt road that cuts through the homestead is enchanting. To the east rises an excavated hillside, where a subterranean cellar discreetly resides. And to the west, a stable of Georgian Qvevri (terra cotta) buried into the earth, as is the custom for the skin-contact wines from the Caucuses and Eastern Europe. These clay vessels, shaped like elegant teardrops and ranging from knee-high to towering specimens, aren't merely containers – they're active participants in the wine's journey.

The process begins with whole grape clusters carefully placed into these earthen wombs. Here, natural fermentation takes hold as indigenous yeasts spring to life, transforming grape sugars into alcohol while the skins and stems impart structure, complexity, and that characteristic amber hue to the wine. The amphora's microscopic pores allow for gentle oxygen exchange, while its egg-like shape creates natural convection currents, keeping the lees in constant, delicate motion. 

For months, the wine evolves within these clay confines. The earth's natural temperature regulation keeps the process steady and slow, while the Qvevri’s mineral-rich walls impart their own subtle influences into the wine. Afterward, it is cellar aged in 10 HL botti or neutral oak barrels with minimal intervention. The resulting wine tells a story of patience, place, and tradition – a liquid testament to an art form that predates written history itself.