Domaine les Matheny Arbois Chardonnay 2020

Few in the region are as talented as emeric foléat of the tiny les Matheny domaine in Arbois. Emeric worked for eight years under the legendary Jacques Puffeney, who taught him the ultimate value in embracing risk and trusting the quality of his fruit to do its thing in the cellar without coercion. Emeric farms three hectares in Arbois without the use of synthetic chemicals and raises his wines in a small cinder block shed devoid of modern gadgetry. Minute additions of sulfites, and even then only sometimes, are the only adjustments he makes to his bold, assertive, deeply personal creations—wines that embody the exhilarating freedom jura growers enjoy compared to many of their peers in more buttoned-up regions.