Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Trocken GG 2022

Stacks of smoky minerality on the sleek, yet compact and well-structured palate. Also excellent citrus ripeness that easily carries the vibrant grapefruit acidity. Long, super-clean finish. Drink or hold. (9/3/23) - James Suckling, 95 pts

The 2022 Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs is made from various parcels at different altitudes of this stony volcanic site. The yeasty funk soon dissipates and gives notions of pure, crunchy apple with fern, crushed citrus leaf and a slight smokiness. Being so close to the river means that this vineyard does not forgive any slack, Tim Fröhlich notes. There is moisture in the mornings, and the high humidity means a botrytis risk, not something he wants in his dry wines. He watches it like a hawk. The palate is salty right away and tingles with lemon and bright freshness, yet there are stony elements, absolute saltiness and concentration that somehow circles back to citrus, homing in on grapefruit with all its spice. There's a lovely salty echo. (Bone-dry) Drink: 2027-2050. (Sep 2023) - Vinous, 93-95 pts

The 2022er Felsenberg Riesling GG, as it is referred to on the front label, offers a beautifully smoky reduction from its spontaneous fermentation as it initially displays scents of smoked bacon, fine spices, and mustard seed. It then shows smore flowery notes as well as almond, candied grapefruit, tangerine zest, cassis, and herbal tea. The wine is superbly focused and playful on the precise and straight palate. The energy is huge, but the finish also shows quite some raciness and intensity. There is also quite some tartness in need of integration, so this impressive dry Riesling is best left alone for a couple of years, and it could well surprise us at maturity. 2028-2042. (Sep 2023) - Mosel Fine Wines, 93+ pts