Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2020
Joh. Jos. Prüm needs no introduction to Riesling lovers, having already become a Mosel icon during the nearly five decades during which its namesake’s son Sebastien was in charge. Katharina Prüm has been active alongside her father, Manfred, since early in the new millennium, and the two of them perpetuate a house style that has itself become a Mosel archetype: wines of delicacy and restrained sweetness, often strongly marked in youth by yeasty and otherwise fermentative aromas, and tingling with dissolved CO2. Their longevity is legendary, and the Prüms personally don’t care to drink their own wines – even the Kabinetts – with less than a dozen, and usually many more, years in bottle. The aromas of youthful Prüm wines make it obvious that fermentation here is entirely spontaneous. Manfred makes no secret of his longstanding disinterest in legally dry wines. These are uncompromising, benchmark Mosel wines.
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard has become intrinsically attached to the name of Joh. Jos. Prüm. The Estate owns five hectares of this majestic site. It offers perfect growing conditions for the Riesling grape with its deep, weather-beaten grey slate soil, good water support, extreme steepness of up to 70 % gradient, and its optimal south-south-west exposure. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is named after the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of J.J. Prüm, to give the workers a better time orientation. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr possess excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavors (typically stone fruits), a fine minerality, and great depth and length. After having been aged for some years, the harmony, finesse and expression of these wines is unique. Stuart Pigott writes “Joh Jos Prüm’s Sonnenuhrs are classic examples of the way in which the best Mosel wine’s natural sweetness magnifies, rather than obscures, their character.”
Tasting notes
Classic, young Prum leesiness. Flavors are spicy with depth and purity. Very versatile and pairs well with different dishes including seafood, poultry, and Asian cuisine.
Vintage | 2020 |
Varietal Composition | 100% Riesling |
Appellation | Mosel |
Vineyard | Wehlener Sonnenuhr Vineyard |
Designation | Pradikatswein |
Alcohol | 7.50% |
Volume | 750 ml |
Country of Origin | GERMANY |
State of Origin | N/A |
Artificially Carbonated | No |
Sparkling Wine | No |
The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from Katarina Prüm is the finest of the four stunning Spätlesen I tasted for this report. The bouquet is gorgeous and the absolute epitome of this great terroir, soaring from the glass in a blaze of pear, apple, vanilla bean, a touch of white cherry, wild yeasts, a very complex base of slate and a beautiful array of floral tones in the upper register that include apple blossoms, violets and iris blossoms. On the palate the wine is fullish, precise and tightly-knit, with a beautiful girdle of acidity, lovely filigree and grip, laser-like focus and a very, very long, nascently complex and perfectly balanced finish. It will be a crime to open a bottle of this stunning Spätlese until it is at least ten years of age, but also perfectly understandable! 2030-2080. - John Gilman, 96 pts.
Tenser and tighter than the 2020 Graacher Himmelreich. But very mellifluous and composed. Clean and crystalline. Flowers and stones. Real grip. - Jancis Robinson
This Spatlese beams you up to Cloud 9, from where you have a wonderful view over the beautiful Mosel Valley. In spite of the considerable concentration, this is super-delicate and precise on the barely medium-bodied palate. Enormously long finish, where you barely feel the natural grape sweetness. Drink or hold. - James Suckling, 96 pts.
The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is pure, clear and flinty on the concentrated nose that is reminiscent of a fresh fruit salad served on a slate plate on an early summer morning. Light, lush and highly finessed but seriously structured on the palate, this is a savory, very clear and elegant Sonnenuhr Spätlese with great precision and finesse and highly stimulating salinity and mouth-watering grip on the finish. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 95+ pts.
flavors set against fine mineral and racy acidity. Delivers a flash of ginger, which adds nice warmth to the zesty finish. Drink now through 2040. - Wine Spectator, 92pts.