Champagne Mouzon-Leroux ‘L’atavique Tradition’ Extra Brut
Sébastien started as the 9th generation of the family to grow grapes in this village and officially took over in 2008, though his first vintage was 2009. He was interested in farm- ing organically, in using biodynamic treat- ments and indigenous fermentations from the beginning. Fermentations are now done pied de cuve – collecting a small preharvest, fermenting that small amount of wine natu- rally, as a “starter” for inoculating the different tanks with the indigenous yeast. Sébastien preharvests 20 berries from each vine for this; the thinking goes that the individual yeast strains will recognize each other in each par- cel.
The estate is just over 7 hectares, almost all in Verzy, split over 50 different plots. Almost sixty percent of the vineyards are planted to Pinot Noir, while Chardonnay makes up just under 40 percent with four percent Arbanne, Petet Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Viticulture is certified organic and tinctures of horsetail, dandelion, wicker, nettle, yarrow and oak are used in addition to the biody- namic horn manure 500 preparation. Horses are used for ploughing and sheep are used to control cover crops. Grapes are harvested with high physiological ripeness; with biody- namic viticulture allowing for balanced sugar ripeness. Fermentation and elevage is done in a mix of steel tanks and 500-liter, 4 to 5-year- old barrels.
Verzy is a terroir that’s often included in the blend of wines from this part of the Montagne – the trio of Grand Crus – Mailly, Verzenay (the most famous of the three) and Verzy. Sébastian Mouzon describes the dif- ferences between Verzenay and Verzy in this way: “In Verzenay, the mineral is inside the fruit. In Verzy, the fruit is inside the minerali- ty.” This is a crystalizing way two think about these two villages.
