In 1960, the Chablis appellation as a whole had just 600 hectares (1,482.66 acres) in production. The region had been in decline since the epidemics of phylloxera and powdery mildew in the late 19th century. The opening of the Paris-Lyon-Marseilles railway in 1856 had severely reduced Chablis’ share of the Paris market by bringing inexpensive wines from the Midi to the capital. Growers had also been severely hit by the persistent problem of spring frost. In 1967, when Henri Laroche inherited 6 hectares (14.83 acres), he had witnessed three years in the 1950s and 1960s in which there was practically no production at all; his vines yielded very little, and it was impossible to make a living from vinegrowing alone. Farmers had turned to cereal crops and animal rearing to survive.
Hope returned to the region in 1963 with the introduction of the first systems to protect vines against spring frost, and Henri Laroche managed to save a section of his Chablis vines using rudimentary techniques such as burning straw and old tires. Eventually, confidence returned to the region of Chablis and triggered a renaissance and expansion of the vineyards, which today cover more than 4,800 hectares (11,861 acres).
Young Michel Laroche, at just 17 years of age, was convinced of the then-untapped potential in the Chablis vineyards, and made the decision to dedicate his future to winemaking. After finishing his studies in oenology in Dijon, he joined his father, Henri, in the family business. Over a period of 20 years, further purchases of vineyards and plots of land on the best possible parcels followed in quick succession. Today, the company owns nearly 100 hectares (247.11 acres) of vineyards in Chablis. Since the beginning of the 1970s, the estate of Domaine Laroche itself has not grown significantly in size, with the main efforts concentrated on continuing to improve quality through controlled yields, the installation of modern, high-performance equipment, and the work of a skilled and dedicated team both in the vineyards and in the winery.
In 1985, Michel Laroche bought L’Obédiencerie, a former monastery in the village of Chablis in which monks had made the first wines in Chablis as early as the ninth century. In this historic Chablis monument, which itself represents a part of the history of this prestigious vineyard region, he installed a series of magnificent aging cellars and his offices. In spite of the constraints of the appellation, he is the first member of his family to make a living exclusively from winemaking, thanks to his innovations, dedication and creativity, along with a respect for traditional winemaking in Chablis.
In 2000, Michel Laroche founded the Union des Grands Crus de Chablis for the purpose of promoting Chablis wines. He implemented quality controls still used by the members, with specific requirements regarding the management of the vineyards (density of plantings) and winemaking (at least 13 months of aging). Domaine Laroche is still an active member of the Union today, confirming its position as a leader in the appellation.
