Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2020

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Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2020
Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2020

Joh. Jos. Prüm needs no introduction to Riesling lovers, having already become a Mosel icon during the nearly five decades during which its namesake’s son Sebastien was in charge. Katharina Prüm has been active alongside her father, Manfred, since early in the new millennium, and the two of them perpetuate a house style that has itself become a Mosel archetype: wines of delicacy and restrained sweetness, often strongly marked in youth by yeasty and otherwise fermentative aromas, and tingling with dissolved CO2. Their longevity is legendary, and the Prüms personally don’t care to drink their own wines – even the Kabinetts – with less than a dozen, and usually many more, years in bottle. The aromas of youthful Prüm wines make it obvious that fermentation here is entirely spontaneous. Manfred makes no secret of his longstanding disinterest in legally dry wines. These are uncompromising, benchmark Mosel wines.

The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard has become intrinsically attached to the name of Joh. Jos. Prüm. The Estate owns five hectares of this majestic site. It offers perfect growing conditions for the Riesling grape with its deep, weather-beaten grey slate soil, good water support, extreme steepness of up to 70 % gradient, and its optimal south-south-west exposure. Wehlener Sonnenuhr is named after the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of J.J. Prüm, to give the workers a better time orientation. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr possess excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavors (typically stone fruits), a fine minerality, and great depth and length. After having been aged for some years, the harmony, finesse and expression of these wines is unique. Stuart Pigott writes “Joh Jos Prüm’s Sonnenuhrs are classic examples of the way in which the best Mosel wine’s natural sweetness magnifies, rather than obscures, their character.”

Tasting notes

The 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett greets one with a superbly aromatic and refined floral nose of tangerine, candied grapefruit, minty herbs, some floral nuances, and yellow peach. The wine is very delicate and rather smooth on the spicy and suave palate. The finish proves tight and lean as some fine zesty elements come through and add a very playful and truly Kabinett footprint. The wine combines a feeling of light ripeness and cool freshness and proves a very successful Kabinett.

Vintage2020
Varietal Composition100% Riesling
VineyardWehlener Sonnenuhr Vineyard
Residual SugarOff-Dry
Alcohol8.00%
Volume750 ml
Country of OriginGERMANY
State of OriginN/A
Artificially CarbonatedNo
Sparkling WineNo

The Prüm family’s 2020 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett AP #12 is every bit as stunning as the Himmelreich Kabinett this year. The beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a complex blend of pear, apple, incipient notes of white cherry, citrus zest, a lovely base of slate minerality,a hint of vanilla bean and a floral topnote redolent of apple blossoms and lavender. On the palate the wine is bright, medium-bodied and beautifully tensile for the vintage, with excellent focus and cut, a lovely core, great mineral drive and a very, very long, vibrant and perfectly balanced finish. Stunning juice. 2028-2075. - John Gilman, 96 ponts

Even more inscrutable on the nose than the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett from the same vintage! But real density on the palate and the firmness and acidity are such that this almost tastes like a dry wine. Absolutely classic J J Prüm with considerably less obvious sulphite influence than at one stage. But I assume that SO2 has played a part in this wine's reticence. Sensation of molten light honey on the very end despite the initial dry impression. Recommended to the patient. - Jancis Robinson, 17+/20 points

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