Luís Seabra Xisto Ilimitado Duoro Branco 2023
For nearly two decades, Luís Seabra has been at the center of a cultural shift in Portuguese winemaking, leading a movement of young, independent winemakers making history by reclaiming historical vineyards, grape varieties, and techniques. Seabra is dedicated to proving that fresh, elegant, terroir-driven still wines can be made in the Douro Valley. His fundamental understanding of soil coupled with his philosophy of minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery have launched him into the international eye as a leader of the New Portugal; according to Eric Asimov, he “is now making some of Portugal’s most compelling wines, both white and red.” Luís Seabra works with old vineyards because he believes that old vines are more resilient and well-equipped to handle the region’s intense weather; this makes them the best candidates to faithfully communicate special terroirs. When he started his solo project in 2013, he created the “Cru” series of wines, which revolve not around grape varieties, but vineyard sites. In Seabra’s own words: “we did this to show how we can put the place in the bottle.” Xisto Ilimitado is a Portuguese analogue to the idea of a “village” level Burgundy. A field blend of 4 varieties planted across 3 subzones in the Douro, Ilimitado is a survey of the schist-driven terroir in the appellation. Bright, focused and fresh, Xisto Ilimitado is a great introduction to the new Douro.
Production notes
90% fermented in used barrel; 10% fermented in stainless steel. All indigenous wild yeast fermentation. Aged in 90% used barrel and 10% stainless steel with one year of lees contact with no battonage.
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Varietal Composition | 70%Rabigato, 20% Arinto, 5% Gouveio, 5% Codega |
| Appellation | Douro |
| Alcohol | 12.50% |
| Volume | 750 ml |
| Country of Origin | PORTUGAL |
| State of Origin | N/A |
| Artificially Carbonated | No |
| Sparkling Wine | No |
This has aromas of sliced green apples, orchard fruit, fennel and a touch of flint. Medium- to full-bodied and fresh, with texture and pleasant phenolics. Long and persistent. Incredible value. A blend of multiple vineyards in Douro Superior. 60% Rabigato, 15% Gouveio, 15% Codega and 10% Viosinho. Made from 30- to 45-year-old vines. Aged for 12 months in used barrels. - James Suckling, 93 pts
2023 was not as warm as 2022, and the 2023 Xisto Ilimitado Branco feels very fresh and clean, with a shy nose and balanced palate with purity and precision. It was produced from the zone of Meda in the south of Douro Superior, close to Beiras, from purchased grapes, mostly Rabigato with 20% Arinto and 5% each Gouveio and Codega from 35- to 60-year-old vines at 500 to 700 meters above sea level on schist soils (hence the name!). The bunches were pressed and the juice let to settle and fermented with indigenous yeasts, and the wine matured in 228- and 500-liter oak barrels for 10 months with the lees, with full malolactic but without bâtonnage. It has 12.5% alcohol and a pH of 3.35 denoting freshness and comes through as balanced and elegant. Excellent! - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 92 pts