Recaredo Particular Gran Reserva Cava Brut Nature 2005

Recaredo's astonishing “Reserva Particular” is made from old vines of Xarel-lo (55%) and Macabeu (45%) planted in the early 1950s. The Xarel-lo undergoes initial fermentation and aging in previously used oak barrels, thereby lending the wine an additional layer of textural intrigue, and the wine spends over ten years resting on its lees under—as always—natural cork. One would be forgiven for expecting the end result to be overwhelmingly yeasty, but this Cava is stunning in its clarity and verve—almost more youthful than the “Brut de Brut” above. Its subtle notes of brioche are offset by bright, clean aromas of red and yellow fruits and a firm spine of salty minerality. A gentle mousse allows its complex vinous qualities to be foregrounded. (Each bottle of “Reserva Particular” is individually packaged in a handsome sliding-top wooden box.)